What is “XX” in Levi’s 501XX?

XX that comes after the Levi’s model number.
I guess there aren’t many people who can explain what it means. .
XX means “Extra Exceed”.
It refers to the thickness, strength, quality, etc. of the fabric.

Levi’s began using the XX notation in the late 19th century.
At that time, jeans became common, and there were many copies of Levi’s jeans on the market.
At that time, 7 oz was the mainstream denim fabric.
However, Levi’s used Amos Caig’s 9 oz denim, which was extremely thick and durable at the time, for its jeans.

As time progressed, and in the late 1960s, the excellent quality of Levi’s jeans became widely recognized, and the “XX” designation, which had meant durable, high-quality denim, was omitted.


After that. “XX” is used on Levi’s vintage clothing and sometimes on regular 501 from the 90’s.

By the way, it was explained that Levi’s was using 9oz denim made by Amos Caig.
Amos Caig was a company that supplied denim fabric from the early days of Levi’s until 1915.

It was once located in Manchester, New Hampshire.
Amos Caig has been providing 9oz white selvedge denim fabric to Levi’s for about 50 years.
After that, Levi’s started using denim from Cone Mills, which was born in the late 19th century, and Amos Caig’s contract with Levi’s was terminated in 1915.
Sales decreased in line with the recession in the United States after World War I in November 1918.
In addition, due to workers’ strikes, the business gradually declined.
The Great Depression of 1929 also took its toll, and Amoscaig went bankrupt on Christmas Eve 1935.

The reason Levi’s from the late 1800’s look different from Levi’s no later than the 1930’s is not just because of the transition from work pants to jeans or aging, but also because the dyeing methods are different in the first place.

By Denim-Wing

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