A comparison of the original 60s Levi’s 70505 “Type 3” and the 90s Levi’s 71557 “Type 3” 60s reprint.

This is a comparison of the original 60s Levi’s 70505 “Type 3” and the 90s Levi’s 71557 “Type 3” 60s reprint.

60s Levi’s 70505 “Type 3”

90s Levi’s 71557 “Type 3” 60s reprint.

The 60s Levi’s Tracker jacket has a different part number, 557XX ⇒ 557 ⇒ 557 70505 “double name” ⇒ 70505.
By the way, some Japanese denim collectors call up to 557 type 3, and from 70505 type 4.
Here, all trucker jackets after Type 2 will be called Type 3.

In the 90’s, Levi’s reprint series was sold as ”Levi’s vintage”.
There is no word for ”Levi’s Vintage Clothing” yet.
The current Levi’s vintage clothing uses the original part number as it is, but at that time, numbers such as 71 were added to the head part.

We will introduce the original 60s Levi’s 70505 “Type 3” and 90s Levi’s 71557 “Type 3” 60s reprint.

The 60s original is naturally Made in USA, and the 90s reprint is Made in Japan.

The paper label is 90s71557 “60s reprint” is square,
The original square paper label, type 3 trucker jacket with 557 letters and no XX printing is mid 60s.
In other words, it is a reproduction of the mid 60s.

Original late 60s 70505 paper label is long sideways.

Looking at the details, both red tabs are Big E.

Red tab is the same “Big E”, but there is actually a difference.
First of all, the material is rayon for the original and polyester for the reprint.
As with the 501XX, the original 60s type 3 rayon red tab fades and curls.
The 60s reprint polyester red tab barely fades or curls.

The red tab below is 90s Levi’s 702XX 30 years ago.
The Levi’s 702XX is a reprint of the 30s, the red tab barely fading or curling.

And LEVI’S letters.
Look at the V in it.

The 60s original has a different thickness on the left and right sides of the letter V, but the 90s reprint has the same thickness.
In Japan, this is called uniform V and non-uniform V, and it is one of the ways to judge Levi’s era.

Uniform V until about 1966, after that it is non-uniform V.
The 90s reprint is a reprint of the mid-60s, so it can be said that it is an accurate reprint.

There are also differences in the part hidden by the chest pocket flap and the stitching on the upper part of the pocket.

The 90s reprint is bartacked and double stitched from the side to the top with yellow sewing thread.

This specification is up to 557 70505 “double name” which is the successor of 557.
The late 60s original is sewn with a single stitch of black thread.

It is from this model that the sewing method here has changed.
By the way, 90s 70505 is the same.

Next, the lining of the chest pocket flap is not light ounce denim, but the same ounce denim.
Light ounces are used up to 557XX and 557 after that, so it is an accurate reprint.

Another, type 3 with almost the same design from the 60s to the present.
But a little different.
The bottom part of the V-shaped switch from the chest pocket to the waist can be said to be the biggest difference in appearance.
Old detail is closed at the bottom.
The current type 3 has a gap.

It can be said that the 90s reprint is made with original details in every detail.
However, the sewing thread uses core yarn.
557 original uses 100% cotton sewing thread.
After all, considering the strength, they probably use core yarn.

The late 60s original uses 100% cotton sewing thread, but it still breaks easily.
The current “Levi’s vintage clothing” also uses core yarn.

Personally, I prefer 100% cotton sewing thread, but it requires more frequent repairs to wear it for a long time.

By Denim-Wing

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